With the assistance of some top breeders in Australia I have designed and built a custom incubator that beats all transportable incubators by design and quality.
1: Double doors allows you to inspect eggs daily without letting out excess heat, thus reducing cold spikes.
2: There are two separate compartments, the "incubator" (bottom) and the "nursery" (top). The idea behind this is so when the eggs start to hatch you will want/need to check on them a couple of times a day, which can be detrimental to all the other eggs in the incubator which are cooling down every time you open the door. With this setup when you see eggs in a container starting to hatch, you remove them and place them in the upper "nursery" section. This allows you to watch the eggs hatching without disturbing the still incubating eggs.
3: To have a good incubator, you need to be prepared in the event that the heat cords break. With this setup you have two heat cords. One heat cord is adequate to heat this whole incubator and hold temperatures quite steady. However it runs on two in case one Fails. Using two cords also means that the incubator can get up to temperature quickly after the doors have been opened.
4: Heat cords only touch the lugs they wind around. This creates no hot spots so that the incubator is heated evenly from top to bottom.
5: There are fans at both top ends of the incubator which push air down to the bottom, circulating air efficiently over the heat cord as it pulses.
6: Circulation fans are not hard wired and are all on simple male/female plugs. This means if they break whilst in use they can easily be changed over in a matter of seconds. Plugs are also at the bottom of the incubator on the same circuit as the fans, so more fans can be added if needed.
7: Fans are controlled by a micro-switch on the inside doors. This means when you do open the doors to add/remove/inspect eggs the air is not circulating and blowing out of the incubator, thus keeping the heat in the incubator.
8: The "nursery" is heated by a heat mat under an aluminum grill, sitting on MDF wood.
9: LED lighting in the incubator section is controlled by a micro switch so that when the door is opened the lights turn on automatically. The LED strip is placed towards the rear of the incubator so that the light shines through the tubs, meaning you can easily see and inspect the eggs without having to open the secondary glass doors.
10: Both sets of doors have a half lap where they meet, so when closed, they seal tight against each other. The outer doors have foam around the edges sealing them tight around all edges when closed, thus creating a completely sealed system.
11: The incubator is very low on power consumption. With the Habistat pulse proportional controlling it at 31 degrees, rough calculations show a 70W power consumption in a 15 degree room.
12: The bottom power point is simply attached to a cord with a plug on the end outside the incubator, which can be plugged into and controlled by any thermostat. This means that the heat cables are easily replaced and another different heat source could be used instead, providing it has a plug on it.
13: This incubator is setup to hold both 10 tubs in one configuration and then hold 15 tubs in another configuration (see pics below).
14: The outside dimensions of the whole incubator are 1900(H)x1150(W)x550(D). by keeping to these dimensions it makes it easier to move and it will fit through all standard size door openings without having to lean it over.
I see too many "boxes" on the market, with a heat cord thrown in and then sold as an incubator. The incubator is a very important piece of the breeding cycle when it comes to captive breeding of reptiles and is often overlooked or has corners cut to make it cheap. I see people put lots of time and money into the successful breeding of reptiles, only to loose viable eggs because the incubator was not setup correctly.With my incubating system you can rest assured your time will not be wasted.